Provence Is for (Wine) Lovers
Issue 011: Drinking more rosé than humanly possible at Domaine de Fontenille and across the South of France.
Introduction
When your friends invite you to a wedding in Provence, you go. The flights are booked without hesitation and an entire trip is immediately planned around the festivities. No questions asked! Some people grumble about destination weddings; I will attend any and all to which I’m invited. It’s such a great excuse to travel; even better if it’s somewhere you haven’t been before, or have been dreaming of visiting for years. Plus, you get to enjoy a vacation with a combination of friends and family, whether yours or someone else’s, and can always sneak away afterwards for some alone time.
Our dear friends Tom and Val organized their nuptials in the South of France in May, so we flew over from New York via Paris to Marseilles, and drove just over an hour to the villa we rented. Leading up to the wedding, my husband Jonathan, our friend Jackson, and I spent a week exploring the region with my parents, who had traveled from the UK a few days before and ensured our trips overlapped—since I rarely get to see them. We then thoroughly enjoyed the long weekend of beautiful wedding festivities and celebrations, which revolved around an incredible chateau close to Carpentras. I won’t go into more details, but it was truly very special.
Once the partying was over, Jonathan and I stayed on for a couple more days a little further east, at another gorgeous property (there’s no shortage of them around those parts) before continuing on to Barcelona by train. Our time in Provence was every bit as amazing as we had expected, so this issue is dedicated to the places and experiences we had either side of the wedding. Hopefully some to bookmark for your next visit!
Provence
Provence is as magical as everyone says. The old stone farmhouses set amongst vineyards that stretch up rolling hillsides; quaint little towns with narrow streets and tiny restaurants, in which local life plays out at a glacial pace (in the best possible way); grand historic chateaus that preside over meticulously landscaped gardens. All of this really exists, and it’s even more romantic and charming IRL. And although we were too early for lavender season, which is usually June-August, this fortunately meant fewer crowds.
A big incentive for us to visit Provence was to sample the wines. Whenever we drink rosé at home, we opt for Provençal imports because they’re light, fresh, not too sweet but still flavorful. It’s not just pinks for which the region is renowned either. Several grape varieties thrive in the region—the vines benefit from the warm climate, while they’re also gently cooled by the mistral winds that dance across the hillsides. Needless to say, we sampled quite a substantial amount of wine during our trip, all while exploring a whole host of towns, villages, vineyards, restaurants, and landscapes. I’ve listed a few of our favorites from this 10-day trip below…
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
For the week leading up to the wedding, we stayed at a farmhouse-style villa in the hills above L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue—a very picturesque town located, as its name suggests, on and around a small island between converging branches of the River Sorgue. With its many weirs and bridges, narrow cobbled streets, plenty of local restaurants, and an adorable antique market on Sundays, this was a perfect base to plant ourselves and explore the region. A couple of recommendations: Dinner at Au Chineur overlooking the river, and happy hour at 17 Place aux Vins in the church square.
Château La Coste
Wine and amazing art and architecture? Say less! Château La Coste is Provence’s answer to Storm King in Upstate New York—a sprawling property dotted with large-scale sculptures, pavilions, and landscape interventions from international names like Oscar Niemeyer, Richard Rogers, Frank Gehry, Damien Hirst, Louise Bourgeois, Richard Serra, and countless more. Quite the collection. We ate lunch at the Tadao Ando-designed restaurant before rushing to our wine tour and tasting, then walked it all off on a self-guided tour of the estate using a map we purchased for a small fee. The wooded hillsides are dotted with the structures and artworks, some of them a fair trek away, and there’s also a hotel tucked away in a peaceful corner. A quick coffee and sweet treat at La Terrasse, the estate’s casual outdoor cafe, capped off a wonderful day out.
Château La Coste is one of the spots included in a guide to Provençal wineries I wrote for Wine Enthusiast, which was compiled based on this trip.
Hôtel Crillon le Brave
The next time we come back to Provence, this is where I hope we’ll be staying. Hôtel Crillon le Brave is a stunning property in a tiny village of the same name, which overlooks a valley of vineyards and olive groves that extend to Mont Ventoux in the distance. The hotel occupies a collection of eight restored stone houses that are stepped down the hillside and connected by bridges, alleys, and courtyards. We stopped by to have lunch at La Table du Ventoux, chef Thomas Lesage’s gourmet restaurant that’s a triumphant celebration of the region’s famed cuisine. The light and flavorful family-style dishes are served en plein air on a stylish, parasol-shaded terrace with panoramic views over the valley. This was a perfect vantage point to watch the rainclouds tumble over the far-off peaks and gather speed towards us, prompting a swift shift indoors just before the heavens opened. The way the storm darkened the sky and brought such a torrential downpour was so spectacular, it made watching from the sheltered spot while enjoying our food and wine all the more memorable.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
This super charming town has been a favorite of artists, fashion designers, and other creatives and celebrities for decades. Its center is compact and easily walkable within an hour, so why not do so in the morning, before lunch at one of the courtyard-adjacent eateries. We joined some of the wedding party at La Maison Favier, where we dined and drank in their back terrace that was rather tight for such a large group, but we made it work. Afterwards, we popped into a couple of stores, including a Diptyque boutique that turned out to situated in the front rooms of a tiny guest, La Maison du Village. Across the street, a little shop named Arum sold chic homeware and high-end beach accessories, plus a few local souvenirs. Elsewhere along our route we purchased some €10 espadrilles and an ice cream each—a nice high-low balance.
Les Baux-de-Provence
Perched high in the mountains on a rocky bluff, this medieval citadel was probably the most tourist-y spot we visited, but luckily it wasn’t too busy on a Thursday afternoon. It’s evident why this was such a strategic and hotly contested site for so many centuries: the views from atop the ruined castle battlements stretched for miles, and the precipitous slopes would undoubtedly be tricky to scale in any hurry, or without being spotted and arrowed. The castle was fun to explore, and involved scrambling over the eroded stones, though the “museum” experience that one might expect from a ticketed site wasn’t really offered. The village surrounding the fortifications was also very picturesque, but too commercialized to feel authentic. Worth a visit overall, but I suggest avoiding weekends (my parents, who’d been a few days prior, said it had been rather overrun).
Lauris
A tiny little hilltop town full of cats! Jonathan and I intended to come here for lunch, but quickly discovered we were too late and that everything was closed for the typically Mediterranean mid-afternoon hiatus. So we simply wandered around the narrow streets between rugged stone cottages, with their blue-painted doors and facades covered in flowers. We also tried to coax any sleepy kitties we found into saying hi to us, but they were not interested. Watching the locals go about the day at their own pace and observing what rural Provençal life is really like—far away from any tourists—ended up being another one of my favorite moments of the trip.
Domaine de Fontenille
After the wedding events wrapped up, Jonathan and I slipped away to enjoy two nights at Domaine de Fontenille, a boutique hotel with 21 rooms and suites nestled into the hillside of the Luberon massif—a little further east than most of the places we’d visited on the trip so far. The tranquility and slow pace of the property was exactly what we needed, and we relished the opportunity to switch off for a couple of days and actually relax. We rarely get to do this on trips, and that’s usually my fault. I can’t help but jam-pack an itinerary!
Apart from its remote location, what first struck me about the Domaine was its authenticity. The buildings and grounds had clearly been updated over time, but nothing felt overdone or inappropriate for the age or style of the property. Everything is very well maintained, and feels chic and idyllic without being too precious or pretentious. It’s a great little hidden spot, particularly for couples, which I’m very glad we discovered.
Note: Check out my review of Domaine de Fontenille on Hotels Above Par.
Architecture & Design
The existing 18th-century bastide (a manor house, for us Englishmen) sits adjacent to a site that has been officially registered as wine-growing land since 1638. The building is typical of noble houses in the region, featuring a symmetrical, flat main facade with rows of large windows flanked by shutters. The current main entrance through huge iron gates brings visitors into a graveled courtyard formed by the back of the house and outbuildings, which leads into the hotel reception via large glass doors straight ahead. What were once the vaulted wine cellars are now event spaces, while the guest rooms occupy the upper floors.
The bastide’s southerly orientation allows the interior spaces to be washed with natural light during the day, though most are compact enough to still feel cozy at night. The design team relied heavily on the building’s beautiful bones, but that’s really all that was needed. Exposed stone, plastered walls, and dark metal hardware all connect with its agrarian history; elevated enough for the nobles, casual enough for the workers. One of the property’s biggest draws is the landscaping, which follows a traditional French style: symmetrical layouts comprising orthogonal pathways, strict lines of sentinel trees, box hedges, and potted plants, plus the odd fountain for a touch of drama wherever it’s deemed appropriate.
Guest Rooms
While most of the guest rooms are located in the main building, ours was one of the recently renovated batch in the outbuildings behind. The ground-level room was bright and airy, with simple and fresh neutral paint, sage green accents, and stone-tiled floors creating a contemporary interpretation of a traditional Provençal farmhouse. The bed was incredibly comfortable, while the shower leaked water everywhere—a very European bathroom issue. The best part about the room was the terrace outside. Not particularly private, as those walking to the swimming pool could easily see past the hedges, but the loungers just outside the door for laying in the sun with a glass of wine was ideal.
Dining & Drinking
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served at the hotel’s restaurant, La Cuisine d'Amélie, and, if you’re not careful, these meals can sneakily all blend together into one daylong sitting. The terrace in front of the bastide overlooks the landscaped gardens and is shaded by giant trees, so it’s the perfect spot sip coffee and nibble pastries long enough for the lunch menus to be put out. A few more bites and several glasses of wine later, and before you know it, the sun is setting and it’s time to eat again. The food was solid, and our favorites on the seasonal dinner menu included the sea bass ceviche with spiced guacamole and rocket salad, and the braised lamb. Naturally, several of the Domaine’s wines (including the rosés!) are served at the restaurant, so you can make your way through those while pairing them with the food. Or you can simply order by the bottle and enjoy in any corner of the property.
Amenities & Experiences
This is by no means an activity-forward destination. If you begin to feel antsy, take a stroll through the gardens, play boule, or swim some laps of the outdoor pool tucked off to the side of the bastide. Otherwise, nestle into a chair or lounger with a book or headphones, reserve a massage or facial at the spa, and simply unwind. There was never a fight over pool loungers during our stay, and aside from the restaurant, most of the seating areas were free throughout the day and evening as well. Most are here for the experiences hosted across the street at the winery, which offers tours, tastings, and courses like the one we tried (keep reading!). The best part? Being able to easily stumble back to the comfort of our room afterwards.
Becoming a “Blend Master”
I feel like I know a decent amount about wine (thank you Dad!) but I am by no means an expert, so I gladly welcome any opportunity to learn more. At Domaine de Fontenille, Jonathan and I were treated to a Blend Master Experience—one of the winery’s more immersive offerings. The two-hour session includes a tour of the production facilities and an in-depth explanation about the varieties of grapes grown across the Luberon region’s ‘terroir,’ before the tasting begins.
We sampled all of the different red-grape varieties that the Domaine produces, and were told about their qualities, properties, and typical uses. Then, we had to deduce which we wanted to blend together, and in what quantities, to create our own wine. More than a typical tasting, this really made us think about what we were drinking, and helped us to better retain the knowledge that had just been shared with us. We experimented with a couple of different blends, before settling on an option that we thought was balanced and tasty. This was then recreated in enough quantity for two bottles, corked, and sealed (with our help here too), and finally labelled with our signature: Les Petits Chats. Overall, this was such a fun, educational, and delightfully different way to experience a wine tasting, and highly recommended for novices and experts alike.
Thank Yous
First and foremost, thank you to Tom Arena and Valentin Guillement for inviting us to your wedding. It was such a special experience to celebrate you and your love, which we were so honored, excited, and grateful to be involved in. And thanks to your extended families and all of our fellow guests for their hospitality, kindness, humor, and love too. Marie Rozet, thank you for having us at Château La Coste and accommodating our group. Olivia Pascoe at Grifco, we’re so thankful to you for coordinating our lunch at Hôtel Crillon le Brave, and Guy Lombard, huge thanks to you and your team for your generous hospitality and delicious food while we were there.
Thanks so much to Anne-Cecile Blanchot, Kimberley Blanchot, Jennifer Reich and the team at August 28 Studio for setting up our stay at Domaine de Fontenille. A massive thank you to Antoine Paques for your knowledge and humor during our Blend Master Experience, you made drinking wine even more enjoyable. And to all the family and friends I got to spend time with during this trip, I’m forever grateful for you. Our final bottle count shall never be revealed, because we couldn’t possibly keep track… D x